09-Jun-2006

09-06-2006

We inched our way out of the city in four lanes of traffic and realized just why the urge to head west. A thick pall of heavy smoggy fog hung low as far as one could see. Looking back at the city from the Westgate Bridge, usually one of the best views of the city skyline, the tall structures of the business district were only shapes and shades of gray.

We arrived at Halls Gap, in the heart of the Grampians after dark, tested our ‘unpacking, cooking and packing up routine quite successfully, and then sat there with our heads resting on the back of our chairs, staring at the sky. So many stars.

The first Europeans to traverse the area were a party of explorers headed by Thomas Mitchell in 1836. Aborigines have lived in the area, which they knew as ‘Cowa’ for 5000 odd years by then. Nevertheless, Mitchell called the rocky range after Grampians in his native Scotland.

The discovery of gold it nearby Stawell in the 1860’s brought more settlers into the area, and by 1870 a permanent settlement was established at Halls Gap to house workers building a dam to bring water from the Grampians to the growing population in Stawell.

The gold has run out since, but the raw beauty of the Grampians draws many tourists to the area today and Halls Gap has become a bustling little town.


10-06-2006

Happy birthday to Chewie !!!

The outback has beckoned him again and again. Now, for his 50th birthday he is living another one of his lifelong dreams. Going Walkabout – camera in hand.

It’s already almost 7 am, but the birds are still asleep here. Still dark, stars still out, but the mist is mist – fresh and clean – not brown smog.

Our first night out was a cold one. But our trusty van, heaps and heaps of blankets (and thermal underwear) saw us through snug and warm.

As dawn begins to break I wonder what the next few weeks has in store for us.

Today it will be the Grampians. I’m sure Chewie will be clicking his camera all over the place.

Though it was already dark when we arrived, the signs of the fires that ravaged the Grampians only a few short months ago, were clearly visible along the side of the road. Blackened tree trunks with fresh new growth sprouting from them. New shoots and branches bursting out in a deep spring green.

Yes, the other signs were all along the road too. “Kangaroos – next 10 km”. Just a reminder.
Some years back Chewie and Kal set out for what was to be a quick hop up to the centre and back in a week. On their first night out, just out of Mildura, an “overgrown hopping rodent” jumped into their path. Their short trip had been just been extended. The repairs took a week so they had to endure a forced stay. Not much to do in Mildura – without wheels - I’m told. The universe provided them with a much needed rest.

Now it’s different. No rush. No trying to get somewhere and back again in a limited period of time. Two whole months of wonder of this vast country, and “Kangaroos up ahead” – next 12,000 kms.

Dawn is breaking and the magpies are beginning to sing. Cold, sleepy campers are beginning to stir. And kangaroos are grazing and hopping in the frosty-white grassy meadow.